A typical day in the historic centre of Naples: pit-stops not to be missed
Naples, a multifaceted city with a thousand nuances. To render the concept better, it is enough to think that each district has a story to tell, a beauty to admire, a delicacy to try or a work of art to fall in love with. Among the multi-realities existing in the Naples area, the historic centre of Naples is certainly noteworthy. Listed as a World Heritage Site in 1995, Unesco has praised the city for having been, since the Middle Ages, a crucial centre for art and architecture expressed in its ancient fortresses, in its complexes – such as the Royal Palace of 1600 – in churches and palaces commissioned by aristocratic families. So when one arrives in Naples, a visit to the city’s historic centre becomes a must. But, to think of being able to see everything in one day is quite impossible, given the wide range of sites to admire. Having said that, it makes sense to plan a detailed programme to use as a vedemecum. And here is our guide to A typical day in the historic centre of Naples.
The pit-stops not to be missed (from things to visit to food)
Start by loading up on calories with coffee and sfogliatella at Scaturchio. This is one of the oldest Neapolitan bars, delighting visitors with its choice of two variants: curly or shortcrust. So, once you have finished your breakfast in Piazza San Domenico, you begin the tour that has as its first stop San Gregorio Armeno, the main street of nativity scenes (active 365 days a year).
Once the walk through the main workshops of the ancient artisans is over, we continue with a visit to Napoli Sotterranea. One of the most evocative places that offers a memorable journey into the belly of the city, thanks to its 40-metre-deep underground passages that bear witness to over 2,400 years of history.
Having reached this point, you may be feeling a little peckish, so it’s time to walk towards Spaccanapoli, an artery in the ancient centre of Naples (one of the most important streets) that corresponds to the lower decumanus of Roman times. From here it will be quite easy to get to Via dei Tribunali, renowned for its old pizzerias such as Di Matteo and Sorbillo. But, if instead of pizza you prefer to taste something else – still traditional – the advice is to try the ragù at Tandem, in Calata Trinità Maggiore, 12.
And so after lunch, the tour continues with the afternoon stops: Monastery of Santa Chiara, Cathedral of Naples, Treasure of San Gennaro and the Exposition Wheel.
Santa Chiara Monastery: located in the heart of the historic centre of Naples, it is one of the city’s most important religious buildings. Founded in the 14th century by the Angevin kings, the complex includes a Gothic church and a large cloister decorated with colourful 18th-century majolica tiles, a unique example of Neapolitan art. The monastery museum is also located here, exhibiting archaeological finds and works of art related to the history of the place.
Naples Cathedral: it is the city’s main place of worship and a symbol of the Neapolitans’ devotion to their patron saint, San Gennaro. The cathedral houses the Chapel of the Treasure of San Gennaro, where the ampullae containing the saint’s blood, the protagonist of the famous miracle that is repeated three times a year, are kept. Its Gothic architecture blends with Baroque and Renaissance elements, making it one of the most fascinating buildings in Naples.
The Museum of the Treasure of San Gennaro: holds one of the city’s most precious artistic and cultural heritages. It is located next to the Duomo and contains a priceless collection of jewellery, silver, gold and works of art donated over the centuries in honour of San Gennaro. Among the most famous pieces are the saint’s mitre, decorated with 3,964 diamonds, rubies and emeralds, and numerous other priceless objects.
Ruota degli Esposti (Wheel of the Exposed): this was a mechanism used in orphanages and convents to receive abandoned babies anonymously. In Naples, one of the best known was located at the Ospedale degli Incurabili. It consisted of a revolving cylinder where parents could leave their child, allowing them to offer protection and shelter without public exposure. This system operated for centuries and is a historical testimony to the city’s social solidarity.
Alternative afternoon route
An alternative afternoon in Naples could start at Piazza Dante, one of the Neapolitans’ favourite meeting places. Here, after a short stroll among the cafés and bookshops of Port’Alba, famous for its antique bookshops, you can head for the Royal Palace of Naples. This building, overlooking Piazza del Plebiscito, is an imposing historical residence, former home of the Spanish viceroys and the Bourbons. At the end of your visit, you can explore the San Carlo Theatre nearby or enjoy a scenic stroll along the waterfront on Via Partenope, admiring Vesuvius and the Castel dell’Ovo at sunset.
Piazza Dante: a large neoclassical square in the centre of Naples, named after the famous Italian poet. In the centre stands the statue of Dante Alighieri, erected in the 19th century. The square is a lively meeting point, framed by historic buildings and connected to the adjacent Port’Alba, with its bookshops. It is an ideal starting point for exploring the alleys of the historic centre.
Port’Alba: is an old city gate, now famous as a street dedicated to bookshops and second-hand book sellers. Located a few steps away from Piazza Dante, it is a paradise for reading lovers, with shops offering antique, rare and modern books. It is also a place frequented by students and intellectuals, with a unique atmosphere evoking the literary Naples of bygone days.
The Royal Palace of Naples: one of the city’s main historical residences. Built in the 17th century at the behest of the Spanish viceroys, it has been the seat of various ruling dynasties, including the Bourbons. The palace’s luxurious interiors include rooms richly decorated with frescoes, precious furniture and art collections. A visit to the palace allows you to immerse yourself in the royal history of Naples, discovering the daily lives of the rulers who inhabited it.
This series of visits offers a fascinating perspective on the history and culture of Naples, far from the more conventional tourist routes. And if you need a little break between visits, the advice is to enjoy a good coffee. Perhaps inside Angelo Carbone’s bar in Via dei Tribunali, 83.