Christmas is a feast that in Naples is celebrated not only with the heart, but also with the table. The traditional Christmas Eve dinner, one of the most anticipated moments of the year, is a true ritual that is renewed every year, bringing with it the magic of the flavours of the sea and the warmth of family. The dinner, with its fish dishes, is a special occasion to bring generations together, share stories and enjoy delicacies handed down from father to son.
Every year, on the evening of Antivigilia, the fishmongers of Naples become the beating heart of the preparations, invaded by the citizens who, not to betray tradition, go en masse to buy the fresh fish that will be the main course of the Vigilia. The hustle and bustle of the market, the rustle of the bags, the glitter of the stalls full of fish, create a unique atmosphere of voices, smells and colours. The scent of the sea mingles with that of spices, while the vendors, with their contagious enthusiasm, suggest the best delicacies for a dinner that will be rich in flavours and meanings. Thus, in the heart of the Neapolitan markets, on the evening of Antivigilia you can breathe in the atmosphere of a Christmas that, even before arriving, is already made up of gestures that are repeated every year, and of traditions that you do not want to forget.
The Pignasecca fish market
Among the city’s most renowned fish markets, the Pignasecca is one of the most popular destinations for Neapolitans. Every year, on the occasion of Antivigilia, hundreds of people flock to the market stalls, located in the heart of this lively and busy neighbourhood: a crossroads of traditions, stories and cultures. Here, amidst the people chatting, the sounds of the market overlapping among the stalls full of fresh fish, there is an awareness that food shopping for dinner on 24 December has become an indispensable ritual.
From anchovies to scampi, from salt cod to octopus, every type of fish is carefully chosen to enrich the Christmas Eve menu, which according to Neapolitan tradition includes at least seven courses of fish, a symbol of the ‘perfection’ and completeness of the feast. Each family has its own customs and typical dishes – handed down from generation to generation – but what unites them all is the passion for good food and the desire to celebrate together – as a family – the magic of Christmas.
The Pignasecca market, with its lively and colourful atmosphere, is therefore a symbol of this tradition, where human warmth and conviviality mingle with the rustle of bags full of fresh fish. And so, as the city prepares to welcome Christmas, the night of Antivigilia is lived with that enthusiasm that only Naples can give, amidst the flavours of the sea and the sound of laughter echoing through the streets. An event that is repeated every year, marking the beginning of one of the most heartfelt and celebrated festivities in the heart of the Neapolitan city.