The Doll Hospital
In the historic center of Naples, in central Spaccanapoli, there is a very special place known as the Hospital of the Dolls. It is a renowned museum in Naples, whose headquarters is in the Marigliano Palace. In it are collected vintage toys and dolls. The curiosity is contained in the fact that, attached to the museum, there is a workshop that provides care for them. Many citizens, in fact, use such a facility as if it were a real hospital. And so it is that this place, which now embraces a centuries-old tradition, has established itself as one of the most famous doll repair centers in Italy.
Those who choose to visit its halls are enveloped in a nostalgic atmosphere, capable of bringing back memories of childhood and carefreeness. It is, in short, a truly magical place that seems to stop time, thanks to the presence – inside the museum – of some vintage toys and dolls (such as porcelain or wooden ones). Among the most well-known ones, in fact, it is possible to admire the Grugnette and the timeless Barbie dolls.
History
What are the origins of the dolls’ opedale? Its history can be traced back to Luigi Grassi, a set designer of Neapolitan court theaters and puppet theaters. In 1895 he founded a small workshop for the construction of his stage sets and for the repair and restoration of equipment used during theatrical performances.
He also carried out work on toys, cult objects, puppets and theatrical masks. Thus, thanks to Grassi’s golden hands-especially in doll repair-his workshop became a point of reference for the entire city.
The etymology of the name, however, is associated with the fact that usually, the Neapolitan stage designer always wore a white coat. The easy association with a doctor’s uniform led the Neapolitans to call that place ‘o spitale d’è bambule (the dolls’ hospital).
After him, the running of the laboratory was handed down from generation to generation. There is one anecdote in particular that is worth mentioning, namely that related to his son, Michele Grassi, who operated during the years of World War II. It was a historical moment of great economic crisis, and this led Michele to repair dolls only “in exchange for a smile.”
But the story of the Doll Hospital continues. That facility began to become world famous with the third generation, that is, with the arrival of the founder’s grandson, Luigi Grassi (as well as precisely Michele’s son). Again referred to by the name “Aladdin’s lamp,” thanks to the glimmer of hope he was able to give to a neighborhood that – in those days – was shrouded in shadow. Within a short time, the store began to be frequented by intellectuals, famous figures from the nobility of Naples and the world of show business. Returning to the present day, however, holding the helm of the workshop is Tiziana Grassi, (i.e., the great-granddaughter of the founder), who in 2017 opened to the public the Museum of the Hospital of Dolls – just a stone’s throw from Napoli Sotterranea – which hosts thousands of tourists from all over the globe every year.
Exhibition route
The exhibit, conceived as an authentic hospital, is organized into several areas: the Bambolatorio is the department where visitors can donate their toys, while departments dedicated to beautification operations include Tailoring, Makeup, and Hair. Repairs, on the other hand, are carried out in departments such as Ophthalmology, where the mechanisms that allow eyes to open and close are repaired. There are also no shortage of areas dedicated to Orthopedics, Decorating, Plastering and Mechanics rooms. The design of the pathway, in short, is reminiscent of that of a hospital, not least because of the presence of other departments such as the reception room, the emergency room, the veterinary outpatient clinic for plush toys and the one for sacred restoration.