Naples is not only walked horizontally. Naples is climbed, crossed vertically, observed from bottom to top (and vice versa), in a continuous game of ascents and descents that sculpt its character. Its staircases are not just links between neighbourhoods: they are narratives in stone, sudden panoramas, unexpected silences and glimpses that seem to come straight out of a dream.
In this article we take you on a discovery of three little-known routes in vertical Naples, perfect for those who love to walk, get lost, and discover the city from unusual angles.
The “Rompicollo” stairs – The Gradoni di Santa Maria Apparente
We begin with a route off the radar of mass tourism, known only to those who live between Via Palizzi and Petraio: the so-called “Rompicollo” stairs, a name as curious as it is evocative. They are actually called Gradoni di Santa Maria Apparente, and represent one of the most authentic and surprising features of the vertical city. Don’t expect a comfortable walk: the route is irregular, sometimes impervious, but absolutely fascinating. Between stately buildings and rickety stairways, Naples shows its truest face. Along the way, you will come across the Church of Santa Maria Apparente, dating back to the 16th century, and enjoy the view of a quiet, forgotten village, far from the chaos of the city.
The Marechiaro staircase: from the hill to the sea
If you love postcard landscapes and scenic routes, the descent connecting Posillipo to the romantic village of Marechiaro is for you. Here the stairs seem to be hand-painted, framed by ancient walls, Mediterranean plants and the deep blue sea in the background.
The advice? Start at the top and walk slowly down towards the sea. It is a long but rewarding walk, giving one of the most beautiful views of Naples. Marechiaro welcomes you with its suspended atmosphere, the famous rock with the window (the one from the song ‘O marechiaro’) and a sense of timeless tranquillity.
Salita Cacciottoli: the hidden Naples between Vomero and Montesanto
Among the city’s most underrated stairways is Salita Cacciottoli, a real gem for those who want to discover the most secret Naples. Built in the 17th century, this staircase connects the Vomero district to Piazza Olivella, a few steps from Montesanto. For years it was neglected, a symbol of decay that is now slowly being restored. Walking here means rediscovering the Vomero as it once was: hilly, green, almost rural. The route is not long, but it is rich in history and charm. A perfect shortcut for those who like to discover the city through its less obvious details.
Naples should be walked, one step at a time
Naples should not be visited in a hurry. It should be savoured slowly, like a coffee taken at a bar counter or a chat in the alleyways. Its staircases tell the story of the city in a different way: they are passages between epochs, between silences and voices, between sky and sea. These three vertical routes are just a taste of what Naples has to offer to those who are willing to lose themselves among its ups and downs. Just put on comfortable shoes and get ready to walk: Naples is waiting for you, step by step.